A fine dinner in a family-style restaurant

To say that Buffet da Siora Rosa is a corner eatery is like saying James Joyce was a good writer. Yes, it's dining room is nothing fancy. There are a couple of tables against the wall, and some stools at a counter. On one of the walls hangs a picture of Rosa herself, a photo that dates to the 1940s. On another wall are a couple of photos of some of the cooks with local celebrities. But the attraction of the place is not the decor, it's the simple but perfectly prepared fare, served by friendly folks who are clearly proud of their reputation.

Located at 3 Piazza Hortis, a couple of blocks from the waterfront, the buffet is one of a number of such establishments in Trieste. They are not buffets as so many Americans know them. It's not a place to serve yourself endless portions of food that is mediocre at best. A knowledgeable waiter or waitress informs you about the daily specials - and brings the food to you. Our waiter spoke perfectly serviceable English, and kindly walked us through the menu, making some excellent suggestions. For the first plate, we had goulash lasagna & eggplant parmigiana. Neither dish was as you might expect. The parmigiana, for example, was not nearly as heavy it is often prepared, not dominated by the pasta. The goulash in the lasagna appeared perfectly natural - and a choice informed by the Slovenian ancestry of Trieste cuisine.

For the second plate, we had prosciutto with olives & greens, and a pork shoulder &  sauerkraut. Also, a salad of greens. All just wonderful. What can you say?


Finally, for dessert, we had the world's best tiramisu - thick & creamy & not too sweet. We are both spoiled on this dessert from now on.

Afterward, we walked off the meal by a long stroll along the waterfront, watching the sun set on the Mediterranean.